Southwestern Utah Vacation - Day 1: Angels Landing

Monday, April 15, 2013
Zion National Park


After our breakfast buffet at the Switchback Restaurant (I can not emphasize enough what a highlight this was for the boys) we headed into the park.  The entrance fee is $25/car and is good for seven days.*

One of the first things we do when we get to a National Park is check out the Visitor Center and talk with a ranger.  The Visitor Center is the place to find out weather conditions, get a summary of the geology or history of the park, and get information on hiking and other sites to see.  The rangers' insights can be invaluable.

Today, the weather was a little cloudy and breezy, but not too cold.  It looked like rain was likely tomorrow, so it made sense to save shorter hikes for then.  The hike that I had in the back of my mind for today was Angels Landing, a four-hour, 5.4 mile hike that was listed as strenuous and (here is the part that gave me pause) not for anyone fearful of heights.

Here is a description from zionnational-park.com (not the official government website):

The last half-mile is across a narrow sandstone ridge. Anchored support chains are attached along some sections of the sheer fin. Sheer cliffs at high elevations while hiking on a narrow fin. Not suggested for children or those with a fear of heights. Avoid standing near the edge at all times! Do not hike the trail when it is wet, storming, or when high winds are present.

Sounds exciting, but maybe a bit too exciting.  In talking with the ranger, we found that there was an area called Scout Lookout just short of Angels Landing that still gave commanding views.  The decision was made!

We took the shuttle to The Grotto stop.  During the ride, we listened to the recorded tour of the canyon, which included an admonition that the hike to Angels Landing could be dangerous.   After exiting the bus, we crossed the road and were met by a sign warning of the danger.  The main message being "Your safety is your responsibility."  Know your limits.  I appreciate that the park service has not closed these trails, but instead has given ample warning and let people make up their own minds.

Reason enough for mom to be nervous:
Six people have gone over the edge in the past 9 years.

Crossed the Virgin River to start our hike.

The way up to Scout Lookout took some work, at least for me, but we weren't in any rush.  The guys would go on ahead and then wait until I caught up.  This part of the trail was wide and in no way scary.  Bill annoyed Tom by taking a million pictures, so any that include Tom usually show him looking exasperated.  It was becoming clear as we walked that, although Dave had no intention of going all the way to Angels Landing and I was on the fence, Tom had determined he was going to go.

Going up Walter's Wiggles

We made it up Walter's Wiggles, a series of short switchback's just below Scout Lookout.  Once at Scout Lookout, we could see across to Angels Landing.  What is not obvious from this vantage point is that the trail goes up to a peak, then back down along a narrow spine, and back up again to the end.

Spine between two peaks not visible.

The boys were ahead of us as we approached the first set of chains.  I got to the top and Tom had already continued on beyond where we could see him and certainly beyond where Dave had planned on going.  

Up the first set of chains.  Note the warning sign again.

Bill was within view and speaking distance and was planning to follow Tom.  I hadn't really made up my mind that I was okay with them going and at least wanted to talk it over with them, but it was out of my hands now.  I was certain that I couldn't follow them and watch them on the scary parts, though.  So I stayed at Scout Landing, a nervous wreck, for the next hour or more.  (Let me just say I'm glad I hadn't read this article before we went.)

Bill took this picture looking back at us.  My comment was,
"Put the camera away and hold onto the chain with both hands!"

The time that they were gone seemed like forever.  Neither of us had realized that the trail continued as far as it did.  As I mentioned previously, you can not see the part of the trail that dips down between the two peaks, so it doesn't seem like it should take that long.  The time was spent alternately between thinking terrible thoughts and being distracted by other people who were going by or had joined us at this place that was deemed "far enough".

The narrow part we couldn't see.

Tom scrambling up.

The view from the top.

Tom taking a picture over the side with the phone.

What a relief when the boys came back into view!  They had made it all the way to the end.  I think I was more proud of them than they were of themselves.  Just another day for a kid, I guess.  I am glad I did not go with them, because I think I would have ruined the experience for them. 

Back down Walter's Wiggles.

A picture of the trail from above.

A great view of the canyon.

I can't vouch for the trail all the way to Angels Landing, but if I can make it to Scout Lookout, most other people can to.  It is well worth the trip.

After the hike, we headed back into town and ate a very late lunch at Cafe Soleil.  Yummy paninis and some pizza.  Definitely hit the spot after our long hike.  From there, we went back to rest at the hotel.  The guys played on the putting green a bit and then Bill and Dave went for a swim in the heated pool.  I just enjoyed the view from a rocking chair on the back patio.

Later we learned about the bombings at the Boston Marathon.  It felt odd to be so far from home.


*  If you walk into the park, the fee is $12/person and is free for those age 15 and under.  Our teenagers are 15 and 14, so we could have saved a whole dollar by walking in.  If you are going to use the shuttle, there is no need to drive in.  We were going to be driving over to Bryce and would need to go through Zion on Route 9 to do so, so paying for the car for the week made sense anyway.  I did walk into the park by myself once and simply had to show the receipt.  If we were trying to enter the park at different times and meet up somewhere else later, I don't know how you would handle that as there is only one receipt.